Days 5 & 6
Guess what? I ragged on Jason Wu and his pantyhose but Tom Ford’s models out in L.A. wore hose, too. Well, I’m not gonna…
THE ROW was first thing Monday. Minimalist, relaxed, luscious knits and wools in jackets, trousers, capes and coats. Layered-up in three, four, five piece ensembles. Tailoring to die. The Twins have been doing this for 10 years now and they had us in and out in less than 15 minutes! They know.
I think CAROLINA HERRERA‘s Wes Gordon finally got the big message. This collection was by far more Carolina than any of his previous attempts. Ultra feminine, showy, sophisticated, colorful, all the stuff her customers demand. Give ’em what they want!
JONATHAN SIMKHAI featured lots of play on trench-coat styling. It was a weird reminder of the MONSE show from just a few days ago. They did a lot of the same thing. But Simkhai’s sharply pleated leather pieces were so scrumptious and worked to within an inch. Kinda made up for everything else.
DION LEE‘s style is evolving. And me likee! The skirts and trousers dropped from waist chains, neck chains, and pulley strings were sleek, hot, and original. But like last season’s garters, the thong straps seemed silly. Ditto for the double obi-type belts. The youngins will dig it, though. Dion is onto something kinda special.
Pardon my rant but I know Mr. DE LA RENTA rolled over in his coffin when the presentation bearing his name hadn’t kicked off by 9:30 last night! Held at the library, anyone who knew him knows how he despised a late showing. Maybe I was just pissy at the new designer’s disregard for his high standards but this collection left me cold. That is all.
COACH is trying to capture a younger market. I can appreciate that. But what they’re known for is their kick-ass leather craftsmanship. Don’t sleep on it. The sneakers and socks with everything threw me, and the group of striped pieces at the end was a refreshing touch, but it’s all about the skins at Coach. And they’d better not forget it!