Days 3 & 4
On Saturday, ULLA JOHNSON, a master with skins, showed several gorgeous ensembles during her presentation. The coat and trouser leather combos had a sweet retro feel. But the rest of her collection was kind of a yawn. I appreciate wanting to branch out but I always say, stick to what you know.
CHRISTOPHER JOHN ROGERS gave us a young and vibrant mix. He won the CFDA award last year so that pumped a few extra dollars into his shiny fabric fund. And he used a lot of it, too. His color palette was rich, bold, and I wanted to love it all but, maybe next season.
BRANDON MAXWELL at the Natural History Museum had a cheering section, literally. Two girls from the Netflix series CHEER was on the front row. He seemed inhabited by the spirit of Ralph Lauren with this super-tailored collection. It was gorgeous, but Brandon’s signature heat was sadly MIA.
LAQUAN SMITH was as sexy as always. Club wear all day long. But I’m still waiting to be knocked the fuck out by him. I know it’s there. I’ve seen it. Stop playin’, LaQuan.
BEVZA served up clean, minimalist looks. Slinky silks, recycled knits, sophisticated layering, sometimes the sweaters got kind of massive but her show shoe was the biggest hit. A sexy, square-toed thong sandal worn with everything. Yummy.
ROMEO HUNTE was at FIT paying homage to Tommy Hilfiger, who actually donated pieces to recycle for this collection. Romeo recreated lots of denim, sweats, hoodies, big furry coats, fun street wear. And I get it. Sustainable fashion has its’ place. At the Goodwill. Or consignment shops. Just not feeling fresh on the catwalk, though.
JASON WU delivered beautiful jewel-tones and romantic pieces that were fluid, flowy and feathery. Interesting fabric treatments, too. But I couldn’t get over the models wearing pantyhose. Why??? It’s those weird little details that become very big distractions. Later—
Winona is wearing BOTTEGA VENETA . Handbag by PROENZA SCHOULER. Booties by SALVATORE FERRAGAMO