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What was up with MICHAEL KORS sending his models out practically bare-face? At 10am?? Did the make-up crew not show? The girls looked tired and beat, especially those who worked all week. Have a heart, Mike! But he served up a collection of gorgeous, mouth-watering flannels and plaids. Leather straps and buckles. The boots and bags were on point with heavy MK hardware. Sometimes it got a little Becky-bougie. I could’ve done without the extra set of built-in sleeves to tie around the neck. But all-in-all, his fine precision and master workmanship may have made this one of my favorite shows of the week.
I’m so tired of trashing the MARC JACOBS show. Season after season. No rhyme, no reason, no theme. And more than most of it was just straight-up unflattering. I feel the Jackie Kennedy vibe with his head-to-toe monochromatic coats. I get it. But doing it over and over, season after season, doesn’t make it better. It’s just another do-over. I know Marc’s got his vision. Whatever it is. I’m just not gonna work that hard to try and figure it out.
So, my lovelies, another New York Fashion Week is done. But London’s Fashion Week jumps off tomorrow, Harlem’s Fashion “Week” happens on Saturday, Milan is next week and Paris is the week after. You know, I just might show up anywhere. SMOOCHES!
Winona is wearing DRIES VAN NOTEN
Guess what? I ragged on Jason Wu and his pantyhose but Tom Ford’s models out in L.A. wore hose, too. Well, I’m not gonna…
THE ROW was first thing Monday. Minimalist, relaxed, luscious knits and wools in jackets, trousers, capes and coats. Layered-up in three, four, five piece ensembles. Tailoring to die. The Twins have been doing this for 10 years now and they had us in and out in less than 15 minutes! They know.
I think CAROLINA HERRERA‘s Wes Gordon finally got the big message. This collection was by far more Carolina than any of his previous attempts. Ultra feminine, showy, sophisticated, colorful, all the stuff her customers demand. Give ’em what they want!
JONATHAN SIMKHAI featured lots of play on trench-coat styling. It was a weird reminder of the MONSE show from just a few days ago. They did a lot of the same thing. But Simkhai’s sharply pleated leather pieces were so scrumptious and worked to within an inch. Kinda made up for everything else.
DION LEE‘s style is evolving. And me likee! The skirts and trousers dropped from waist chains, neck chains, and pulley strings were sleek, hot, and original. But like last season’s garters, the thong straps seemed silly. Ditto for the double obi-type belts. The youngins will dig it, though. Dion is onto something kinda special.
Pardon my rant but I know Mr. DE LA RENTA rolled over in his coffin when the presentation bearing his name hadn’t kicked off by 9:30 last night! Held at the library, anyone who knew him knows how he despised a late showing. Maybe I was just pissy at the new designer’s disregard for his high standards but this collection left me cold. That is all.
COACH is trying to capture a younger market. I can appreciate that. But what they’re known for is their kick-ass leather craftsmanship. Don’t sleep on it. The sneakers and socks with everything threw me, and the group of striped pieces at the end was a refreshing touch, but it’s all about the skins at Coach. And they’d better not forget it!
On Saturday, ULLA JOHNSON, a master with skins, showed several gorgeous ensembles during her presentation. The coat and trouser leather combos had a sweet retro feel. But the rest of her collection was kind of a yawn. I appreciate wanting to branch out but I always say, stick to what you know.
CHRISTOPHER JOHN ROGERS gave us a young and vibrant mix. He won the CFDA award last year so that pumped a few extra dollars into his shiny fabric fund. And he used a lot of it, too. His color palette was rich, bold, and I wanted to love it all but, maybe next season.
BRANDON MAXWELL at the Natural History Museum had a cheering section, literally. Two girls from the Netflix series CHEER was on the front row. He seemed inhabited by the spirit of Ralph Lauren with this super-tailored collection. It was gorgeous, but Brandon’s signature heat was sadly MIA.
LAQUAN SMITH was as sexy as always. Club wear all day long. But I’m still waiting to be knocked the fuck out by him. I know it’s there. I’ve seen it. Stop playin’, LaQuan.
BEVZA served up clean, minimalist looks. Slinky silks, recycled knits, sophisticated layering, sometimes the sweaters got kind of massive but her show shoe was the biggest hit. A sexy, square-toed thong sandal worn with everything. Yummy.
ROMEO HUNTE was at FIT paying homage to Tommy Hilfiger, who actually donated pieces to recycle for this collection. Romeo recreated lots of denim, sweats, hoodies, big furry coats, fun street wear. And I get it. Sustainable fashion has its’ place. At the Goodwill. Or consignment shops. Just not feeling fresh on the catwalk, though.
JASON WU delivered beautiful jewel-tones and romantic pieces that were fluid, flowy and feathery. Interesting fabric treatments, too. But I couldn’t get over the models wearing pantyhose. Why??? It’s those weird little details that become very big distractions. Later—
Fashion Week Fall-Winter 2020 brought more shifts and changes to the industry. Many I don’t like. Tom Ford running off to present his collection in L.A. is one of them. There was no kick-off party! Not until Friday night. But we’ll get into that later. Here are some highlights from Thursday and Friday—
Thursday afternoon with TADASHI SHOJI started out very interesting. Heavy on the Mongolian vibe, I loved his tapestries and brocades especially. But things tanked with the evening wear. Stuffy, with way too many sequins. What in the Liberace happened there?
CHRISTIAN SIRIANO stepped completely out of his comfort zone this season. Sponsored by BIRDS OF PREY, the Harley Quinn flick, his collection was fun and loud, with heavy metal music and lots of heart-shaped beauty marks. Hated the pink lipstick! But loved that snappy signature wide-brimmed hat.
MONSE on Friday. Big safety pin closures, tartan plaids, but enough bare skin to sex it all up. Deconstructed but not as extreme as past seasons. James Turlington, Christy’s nephew, was on the catwalk. Still can’t believe he signed with IMG over Winona, Inc. That boy is prettier than his aunt.
Marcus Wainwright and RAG & BONE have been off the Fashion Week scene for a minute. He’s back, with comfy sweater dresses and fabu slouchy boots. Clunky thigh-high boots with slinky little slipdresses, All nice. But boys in camouflage and dainty flowers patterns? That’s a NO from me, doll.
SERGIO HUDSON is new and fresh. He served up lots of monochromatic looks with big 80s hair and great color. Loved his bold houndstooths. And the tight skirts and belted jackets really took me back to my days with Versace. So hot. Keep an eye on him.
Winona is to FASHION WEEK what fireworks are to the 4th of July. The show might go on but without her it sure won’t be the same. Back in the day she was in such high demand on the catwalk that designers were known to adjust their show dates to work around her schedule. And now, as the agency owner with six of the fashion industry’s top models on her roster, they still do! Ah…it’s nice to be on top. But hard as hell to stay there.
She shows up on everyone’s web page and blog site during FASHION WEEK. Covering her fashion choices for the next few days is just as important as anything happening on the runways so stay tuned. WHAT SHE WORE DURING FASHION WEEK starts NOW…
There’s a lot of love between Winona and Desi. But when it comes to getting their own way, it’s a toss-up over who can be the biggest prick. Right now Desi is quite taken with the exotic Nova, a brand new WINONA, INC. protègè. Not only is he cheating on Truman, he’s getting in the way and threatening all of Winona’s big plans for her. That’s right. Nova is a woman. At least, that’s what they think.
Some say that Fall doesn’t kick off in the Apple until The Metropolitan Opera Opening Night Gala. Not me. I don’t know AIDA from Adidas and fall asleep at almost every performance. But the vibe on opening night is always so stank with snooty elegance and fat, fat wallets that I don a big gown—just give me a reason, right?— and show up for it year after year. The 2019-2020 season opened with PORGY AND BESS. This one I DO know. And I thought it kinda ballsy of them to take us to “Catfish Row”, considering the current funky state of things. But celebs like ELLEN BURSTYN, MAGGIE GYLLENHAAL, IMAN, DONNA KARAN and COURTNEY B. VANCE were out in full force and cheering. It was a sensational performance! From the first note to the last. And guess what? I didn’t fall asleep.
Before Fashion Week officially got started, HARLEM’S FASHION ROW held their 12th Annual Fashion Show and Style Awards downtown at One World Trade Center. And I couldn’t miss it. I’d just gotten sprung from the slammer and barely had enough time to dash home and get dressed. The challenge was to wear a Black designer. Hardly a challenge. I grabbed another CUSHNIE while Riccardo owns several fabulous OZWALD BOATENG suits. His only challenge was to choose which one. After the reception and fashion show, a few of us were invited to the Vogue offices on the 25th floor for a private soiree. They served Kaluga cavier, the Zyr vodka was ice cold and I took hits left and right. By then everyone had heard how I’d spent my afternoon and the jokes just kept on coming.
So that’s it. NYFW is officially done. There were glimmers of hope amid the many disappointments but that’s fashion, right? They might love it. You might hate it. And vice versa. But we all keep coming back for more. So ’til next time… SMOOCHES!
For the MICHAEL KORS presentation, I pulled out an old en-som from a few years back. He’s Mr. Americana, you know, but this season was so heavy into the red, white and blue, there were moments when I forgot where I was. Is this Ralph again? Not saying that’s a bad thing but… MARINA MOSCONE‘s collection was very mature. Again…not a bad thing. It’s her tailoring, though. So fine. That’s what makes some of her pieces almost essential. The BROCK Collection was very SENSE AND SENSIBILITY in their big, balloony, bosom-baring dressing gowns. Beautiful. But I don’t know who would wear them outside of a movie set? BADGELY MISCHKA gave us deep jewel tones, citrus-y brights—oh so good! But sadly, their final evening wear segment went flat. And that’s always been their ace! Big drag. Now, things are changing on the catwalk. The days of traditional shows with segments and themes, and all focus on the clothes, are done. But MARC JACOBS? He paid homage to everyone from Doris Day to Karl Lagerfeld. And much of it was beautiful. But totally disjointed. I think they need to come up with a new term because ”collection”? It no longer applies.